With my last several posts being very serious in nature, I figured it was about time to post a more informal blog about my weekend. This past weekend, for the first time in my life, I tried going surfing! It was so much more difficult than I ever thought it would be.
Now that I have started my second year of the program, some realities are starting to hit me. First, that I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Meaning that in the now foreseeable future, my time here at Pepperdine will be finished. Second, that Malibu won’t always be my home in the future. Meaning that the beach, the amazing view and the perfect weather won’t be constants in my everyday life forever. Third, that my amazing classmates won’t be in my life like they are now. These realizations have led me to change my focus a little on how I manage my time and what’s important to me.
When I was thinking about this, I realized that while I had been to the beach last year, I had never tried surfing. I had lived in Malibu for an entire year, the home of the Beach Boys and had never tried surfing before. So I talked to my good friend Mark Cathy (an avid surfer) after one of our football practices and we decided to go surfing.
We headed out to Surfrider Beach in Malibu for my first day of surfing. Our good friend and classmate James Imatani came along with us. My first day I had a great time surfing. It was much tougher to “pop up” than I thought it was going to be. The waves were great and the weather was perfect as always. Other than James crashing on a rock one time, we all had a good time. I hope I am able to go again in the near future.
Now when I look back at my life when I’m older, I can someday tell my children about the time I went surfing when I lived in Malibu, CA... just like the Beach Boys!
